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Here’s What I Saw in a California Town Without Running Water

Mother Jones

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Juana Garcia, 49, and her daughter, Noemi Castro, 11, in their home in East Porterville, CA. The family has had a dry well for the past two years. Gabrielle Lurie

Glance at a lawn in East Porterville, California, and you’ll instantly know something about the people who live in the house attached to it.

If a lawn is green, the home has running water. If it’s brown, or if the yard contains plastic water tanks or crates of bottled water, then the well has gone dry.

Residents of these homes rely on deliveries of bottled water, or perhaps a hose connected to a working well of a friendly neighbor. They take “showers” with water from a bucket, use paper plates to avoid washing dishes, eat sandwiches instead of spaghetti so there’s no need to boil water, and collect water used for cooking and showers to pour in the toilet or on the trees outside.

East Porterville is in Tulare County, a region in the middle of California’s agriculture-heavy Central Valley that’s been especially hard hit by the state’s historic drought. More than 7,000 people in the the county lack running water; three quarters of them live in East Porterville. The community doesn’t have a public water system; instead, residents rely on private wells. But after years of drought, the nearby Tule River has diminished to a trickle and the underground water table has sunk as more and more farmers rely on groundwater. Last week, I spent a few days interviewing residents in the town, also known as “ground zero” of the drought.

Tulare County delivers bottled drinking water to dry homes, where each resident receives half a gallon per day. Gabrielle Lurie

Like many small towns in the Central Valley, East Porterville is home to the pickers and packers of the fruits, veggies, and nuts grown nearby and distributed across the country. Many are poor; more than half of kids growing up in East Porterville fall below the poverty line. Throughout the town are the telltale signs of rural poverty: Dogs guard run-down trailers and homes, roads of uneven pavement devolve into dirt without warning. The air is hazy with dust from the fields and roads. It clings to the tables and chairs and boxes of bottled water left outside; it collects between fingers and toes, turning the shower water a cloudy brown. Everyone coughs. Asthmatics end up in the emergency room.

Iglesia Emmanuel, in East Porterville, houses portable showers where residents can bathe until 9 p.m. Gabrielle Lurie

At the county’s drought resource center—a trailer in East Porterville—residents can sign up for bottled water deliveries, take showers, and apply for loans to fund well drilling. Julia Lurie

Despite fallowing farmland because of the drought, Tulare County continues to lead the nation in sales of agricultural products. Gabrielle Lurie

Among the first to report a dry well was Donna Johnson, a 72-year-old retired recreational therapist who lives in East Porterville with her husband, Howard, and a handful of rescue dogs. In the spring of 2014, she turned on the tap to find that it had reduced to a dribble—then no water at all. Howard tried to extend the pump further into the well, but where there should have been a splash of water, there was simply a “thud” of solid against solid. When Johnson called a well-driller and learned the company had a long waiting list, she started wondering just how many wells had gone dry. After a couple of weeks of knocking on the doors of strangers in her neighborhood, Johnson had a list of more than 100 homes.

Over the past 18 months, Johnson has become known as East Porterville’s “water lady,” as she spends her days collecting donations of water and paper goods and delivering them in a pickup truck to a list of homes with dry wells—a list that’s expanded to hundreds of addresses. “There’s always somebody calling, saying, ‘I don’t have water!'” she said.

Donna Johnson drops off water for Bill Dennis, whose well went dry last month. Gabrielle Lurie

â&#128;&#139;Reuben Perez fills up a barrel of water at the public tank to bring to Juana Garcia’s home. The water will be used to do laundry, take bucket showers, and flush the toilet. Gabrielle Lurie

The county, in part prompted by Johnson’s discovery, has also stepped in. Locals can now bathe in portable showers outside the Drought Resource Center (a trailer set up in a church parking lot) and sign up for bottled-water deliveries (half gallon per person per day). Tanks of nonpotable water sit outside the fire station; in the evenings, residents fill up barrels for things like laundry and bathing.

As an interim solution, the county is installing large plastic tanks of water connected to some dry homes. But progress has been slow. So far, 320 tanks have been installed; more than 1,300 still remain dry.

It doesn’t help matters that homes in the directly adjacent, slightly wealthier town of Porterville have running water from the town’s municipal water system. Perhaps the most glaring example of this is on the city boundary: Locals take showers at Igelsia Emmanuel in East Porterville; directly across the street, in Porterville, is a patchy but green golf course.

Some pets are fed potable water delivered by the county, others are left with dirtier water or are abandoned. Gabrielle Lurie

A map of East Porterville at the county’s drought resource center shows homes without running water (green) and homes where large tanks have been installed as an interim solution (blue). Julia Lurie

East Porterville residents without running water have fallen into a tedious routine. Juana Garcia, a 49-year-old mother of five, lost water two years ago—in some ways, her living conditions remind her of those she left behind in Mexico when she moved to East Porterville in 1988. The change has been particularly challenging because she suffers from Lupus and arthritis, making it difficult to haul water to her home or make the trek to the public showers.

Garcia doesn’t speak much English, so her daughter, a talkative 11-year-old named Noemi, walked me through the daily routine. Dishes are washed in two buckets: one for soaking, the other for rinsing. Afterward, water is dumped into the toilet so it will flush. For showers, Garcia boils water that Johnson hauled in from the gas station (Garcia doesn’t have a car), or she takes her kids to the portable shower in front of the church. Teeth are brushed with bottled water; clothes are hand washed and air-dried unless a friend has time to take the family to the laundromat.

The trees in the backyard used to yield pears, lemons, and pomegranates, but they’re all dead now; any extra water is used to fuel the swamp cooler, which, Noemi explained, uses five gallons of water an hour—and it’s a necessity as temperatures routinely top 100 degrees. For dinner, Garcia makes things that require minimal water and won’t heat up the house—like microwave meals or sandwiches.

Juana Garcia washes grapes with bottled water. She soaks dirty dishes in soapy water before rinsing them to minimize water use. Gabrielle Lurie

Juana Garcia, 49, trails behind her kids, Noemi and Christopher Castro, 11 and 5, on the way to the public showers. Gabrielle Lurie

Amy Mcloan applies makeup outside the public showers. Gabrielle Lurie

An impressive coalition of local supporters have stepped up to help residents like the Garcias. At Iglesia Emmanuel, Pastor Roman Hernandez has been distributing crates of bottled water for months, and organizes services around the Central Valley to pray for rain.

Local nonprofit FoodLink doles out “Drought Relief” food boxes several times per week, targeted towards farmhands who have lost jobs as farmers let their fields fallow.

Granite Hills High School, which serves East Porterville students, opens its showers early so that students without water can use them. Many students come from families who are struggling financially because of lack of work; the number of students who eat free breakfast and lunch at school has nearly doubled over the past year.

Pastor Roman Hernandez prepares free bottled water for locals to pick up. Gabrielle Lurie

Residents line up to pick up emergency boxes of food. Julia Lurie

FoodLink, a local nonprofit, delivers staples to those for whom money is tight because of the drought. Julia Lurie

Luis Diaz, a junior at Granite Hills High School, has running water at home, but his parents, who work in the fields, have struggled to find work. Julia Lurie

A Land O’Lakes truck fills up outside Eric Borba’s dairy farm. Julia Lurie

Vicky Yorba, 95, stands beside the water tank in her front yard. Gabrielle Lurie

It’s tempting to blame agriculture for the disaster in East Porterville; after all, farmers’ increased reliance on groundwater is largely responsible for lowering the underground water table to begin with. But the reality, dairy farmer Eric Borba told me, is that “people wouldn’t be living here if it weren’t for ag.”

Many residents I spoke with said that while performing daily tasks without running water is challenging, the sentimental losses are the toughest to face: favorite trees that died, pets and farm animals that had to be let out into the streets. When Vicky Yorba, a 95-year-old, moved to East Porterville in the 1960s, she and her husband planted a garden of geraniums and roses together. “My favorite was geraniums,” she remembered. “I had all kinds of them.” Yorba’s husband died more than twenty years ago, but the plants lived until last year, when her well went dry. Now, they’ve been replaced by a plot of dirt.

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Here’s What I Saw in a California Town Without Running Water

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Do-It-Yourself Herbal Medicine – Sonoma Press

READ GREEN WITH E-BOOKS

Do-It-Yourself Herbal Medicine

Home-Crafted Remedies for Health and Beauty

Sonoma Press

Genre: Health & Fitness

Price: $2.99

Publish Date: July 10, 2015

Publisher: Arcas Publishing

Seller: Ingram DV LLC


The Modern Guide to Using Herbs and Essential Oils You don’t have to identify with the goddess or Earth Mother labels to get going with holistic treatments for your everyday health needs. If you already buy organic produce, make an effort to eat whole foods, and tend to choose Method products over Windex, it only makes sense that that you’d approach your health, wellness, and beauty regimen with a similarly all-natural approach. Do-It-Yourself Herbal Medicine inspires you to easily and affordably take charge of how you look and feel by sharing simple and fun recipes that use Mason jars, sauce pans, and even your French press in creative ways. In these pages, you’ll find: • Down-to-earth info on the exploding popularity of essential oils and why they’re so effective • In-depth profiles of 5 must-have herbs to kick off your herbal medicinal projects, as well as 30 additional herbs to get to know and use • Over 200 recipes for face and hair care, body and skin care, intimate care, mental health and wellness, common ailments, home cleaning products, and self-care for the day common occurrences, from a hangover to a Netflix binge watch Improve your health and empower yourself today with these simply, powerful remedies.

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Do-It-Yourself Herbal Medicine – Sonoma Press

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Forget insecticides. Scientists are making pests that destroy themselves

Forget insecticides. Scientists are making pests that destroy themselves

By on 31 Aug 2015commentsShare

Let’s get this right out in the open: Scientists are genetically engineering moths to self destruct. I know, I know — sounds pretty mad scientist-y. But consider this: Those moths are wreaking havoc on sauerkraut-destined cabbage, kale, and other super-hip cruciferous super foods. So either the moths go, or you have to start microwaving leftover rice and hot sauce for lunch like everyone else.

Now that I’ve got your attention, pop open a jar of that artisanal sauerkraut and let’s begin. Diamondback moths are kind of the Incredible Hulks of the pest world. Try to kill them with a single pesticide, and they’ll just develop resistance and grow stronger. Farmers try to work around this by deploying multiple pesticides in rotation, but even then, the moths remain a stubborn foe. Here’s more from the New York Times:

An invasive species, the diamondback moth was once a minor nuisance. It became an agricultural headache in the late 1940s as chemical pesticide use exploded. The moth, the first crop pest to evolve resistance to DDT, multiplied as feebler competitors died off.

Today, the pest is found where kale, broccoli, Chinese cabbage and other cabbage cousins grow. Hungry caterpillars that hatch from eggs laid on the plants cost farmers an estimated $5 billion a year worldwide. And the diamondback moth continues to adapt to new generations of pesticides. In Malaysia, it is immune to all synthetic sprays.

OK — so chemicals don’t work. And the moths’ natural foe, wasps, are even less effective than chemicals, the Times reports. Desperate, scientists even tried sterilizing the suckers back in the ’90s using gamma radiation — something that totally screwed the unfortunately named screwworm — but that didn’t work either, according to the Times.

Fresh out of ideas, scientists at Cornell and the British biotech company Oxitec pieced together a gene that makes female moths dependent on an antibiotic for survival. That way, when they’re out in the wild, the females die before reaching reproductive age, the Times reports. (If the feminist in you is angry that the self-destruction works only on females, take comfort in knowing that the gene leaves a bunch of adult males without anyone to bang.)

Not surprisingly, these mutant moths have sparked some controversy. Here’s more from the Times:

Groups opposed to the use of genetically modified organisms worry that the protein made by the synthetic gene could harm wildlife that eat the moths.

“We would argue that more information should be collected,” said Helen Wallace, the director of GeneWatch U.K.

Haydn Parry, the chief executive of Oxitec, says the company addressed this concern and others in data submitted to the Department of Agriculture.

“We fed the protein to mosquitoes, fish, beetles, spiders and parasitoids,” he said. “It’s nontoxic.”

Scientists at Cornell are currently testing the effectiveness of the gene by putting modified moths and wild moths together in outdoor cages. Anyone concerned about mutant moths wandering around organic fields where they don’t belong needn’t worry, the Times says:

Studies suggest the likelihood of diamondback moths straying is low. Wild moths released into the open tend to stay put as long as they have food and company. Any that do venture farther afield are likely to be wiped out by New York’s cold winter.

Even if strays are found, legal experts say that national organic standards penalize only the deliberate use of a genetically modified organism.

And fortunately, the researchers at Oxitec equipped the moths with a gene from coral that makes them glow red under ultraviolet light, so if they do get out, they’ll be easy to spot (assuming most farmers are also aspiring crime scene investigators).

Just like those mosquitos modified for self destruction down South, these moths will face a lot of scientific and societal barriers before gaining acceptance in the agriculture world. Still, they’re slated for a test run in a small cabbage patch next summer, so it’s worth considering how you feel about them now. Personally, I’m not too torn up about scientists tinkering with disease-carrying mosquitos, and if it means less insecticide use, mutant moths don’t sound so bad either, especially considering they’re kind of wired for self destruction already.

Source:

Replacing Pesticides With Genetics

, The New York Times.

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Forget insecticides. Scientists are making pests that destroy themselves

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Soon We Will All Be Little More Than Organic FedEx Packages

Mother Jones

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On Saturday the New York Times ran this headline: “Christie Proposes Tracking Immigrants Like FedEx Packages.” We are, of course, supposed to be scandalized by this. After all, if “anchor babies” is dehumanizing to immigrants, surely treating them like FedEx packages is nothing short of brutalizing. The article goes on to explain:

Gov. Chris Christie of New Jersey said on Saturday that if he were elected president he would combat illegal immigration by creating a system to track foreign visitors the way FedEx tracks packages. Mr. Christie, who is far back in the pack of candidates for the Republican presidential nomination, said at a campaign event in New Hampshire that he would ask the chief executive of FedEx, Frederick W. Smith, to devise the tracking system.

Uh huh. This is, of course, part of the Trump-inspired “can you top this” game of being tough on illegal immigration. That’s a bit of a yawn, though, since we went through the same thing during the 2012 primaries. What’s more interesting is that Christie’s schtick is Trump-inspired in an entirely different way: pretending that business people can be slotted effortlessly into government positions where they’ll kick some free-market ass and get our government moving again. Trump started this by claiming that he’d send Carl Icahn over to China because he’s a “killer” and would quickly put the Chinese in their place. Now Christie is following suit.

So what’s next?

Hillary Clinton says she’ll hire Bill Gates to run Obamacare.
Ted Cruz says he’ll get the Koch Brothers to whip the EPA into shape.
Ben Carson says he’ll ask Warren Buffett to run the IRS.
Scott Walker says that Jeff Bezos is the man to fix the GSA.
Bernie Sanders says he’ll pick Oprah Winfrey as his education czar.
Jeb Bush says he’ll bring in Sergei Brin to run the CIA.
John Kasich says he’ll nominate Mitt Romney to get the VA on track.

Who else would be able to fix up an inept government agency in a few months? Or maybe it should be the other way around: Are there any government agencies that couldn’t be reformed in short order by the right kind of steely-eyed business leader?

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Soon We Will All Be Little More Than Organic FedEx Packages

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This GOP Presidential Candidate Is Trying to Destroy Planned Parenthood. Now Planned Parenthood Is Fighting Back.

Mother Jones

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Planned Parenthood in Louisiana is asking a federal judge to halt presidential candidate and state Gov. Bobby Jindal’s efforts to cut Medicaid funding for the health care organization, arguing that the cut would hurt nearly 6,000 low-income women, men, and teens who access the group’s services each year.

Referencing the series of attack videos that depict Planned Parenthood officials in California and other states discussing fetal tissue donation, Jindal earlier this month directed the state’s department of health to terminate Planned Parenthood’s contract with Medicaid, saying the organization was not “worthy of receiving public assistance from the state.”

Planned Parenthood Gulf Coast, which operates clinics in New Orleans and Baton Rouge, does not offer abortion services in Louisiana. It does, however, provide physical exams, breast cancer screenings, and testing for sexually transmitted infections to 10,000 people each year, 60 percent of whom are enrolled in Medicaid.

In a lawsuit filed Tuesday, lawyers for the health care organization wrote that those patients will be cut off from health care access as early as next week, causing them “significant and irreparable harm,” unless the court blocks Jindal’s decision. Medicaid payments to Planned Parenthood, which totaled nearly $730,000 last year, are set to end September 2 unless the court steps in.

A key issue is whether cutting off Planned Parenthood’s Medicaid funding is legal. This month, the federal Centers for Medicare & Medicaid Services (CMS) warned Louisiana that terminating Medicaid provider agreements likely violates a federal rule requiring Medicaid beneficiaries to be able to obtain services from any qualified provider.

The point of that provision, according to CMS, is to “allow Medicaid recipients the same opportunities to choose among available providers of covered health care and services as are normally offered to the general population.”

Louisiana isn’t the only state to cut funding for Planned Parenthood: Alabama, Arkansas, New Hampshire, and Utah have taken similar steps. And Republicans in Congress tried, but failed, to push through a bill to slash $500 million in federal funding.

Jindal is also one of a handful of Republican governors who have launched investigations into state Planned Parenthood affiliates in the hopes of finding criminal activity related to the sale of aborted fetal tissue. Those investigations, many of which are taking place in states that don’t have fetal tissue donation programs, have so far turned up nothing. The investigation in Louisiana, however, has put on hold the construction of a third Planned Parenthood clinic, which was approved by the department of health earlier this year after months of pushback.

But coming out swinging against the country’s largest women’s health care organization hasn’t translated to a more successful presidential campaign for Jindal. He was one of two sitting governors who did not get to participate in the first prime-time Republican debate this year because the forum was limited to the top-polling candidates. National polls have consistently put him in the low single digits.

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This GOP Presidential Candidate Is Trying to Destroy Planned Parenthood. Now Planned Parenthood Is Fighting Back.

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4 Reasons Why a Biden Run Would Help Sanders

Mother Jones

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The politerati are getting a slight break from Trumpalooza these days, thanks to the Biden Bump. The veep has been actively discussing a possible presidential run with Democratic donors and strategists as he moves toward a final decision, and political handicappers have upped the odds that Biden, still coping with the recent death of his 46-year-old son Beau, will enter the fray. This has led to a torrent of speculation about what Biden will do and what a last-minute leap might mean for the 2016 race. Could it hurt the once-inevitable-but-now-email-burdened Hillary Clinton by providing Nervous-Nellie Democrats with an alternative? Could it help Clinton by offering her a more establishment-oriented sparring partner to vanquish—which would yield a positive narrative for her campaign?

The other day, Sen. Bernie Sanders, the independent seeking the Democratic nomination who has drawn thousands to rallies and boomed in recent polls, was asked how a Biden bid would affect the contest. He characteristically pooh-poohed the question. “Politics is not a soap opera,” he said. “What impact it will have on the race, I honestly don’t know. I mean, I wish I could tell you, but I don’t. Will it help or hurt me? Will it help or hurt Hillary Clinton? I just don’t know.”

Yet there are several reasons why a Biden run would be good for Sanders.

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4 Reasons Why a Biden Run Would Help Sanders

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You Need to Read This Former NFL Lineman’s Heartbreaking Message About Race and Bullying

Mother Jones

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Jonathan Martin, the ex-professional football player known best for being at the center of a major NFL bullying investigation, retired earlier this summer. At the time, reports indicated that the 26-year-old Pittsburgh native was quitting due to a back injury that would have kept him off the field for the entire upcoming season. But many thought that the bullying scandal—according to an NFL investigation, some of his Miami Dolphins teammates constantly taunted him with jokes about his sexuality and race—had much more to do with it.

Martin posted a candid, raw note to Twitter on Wednesday, revealing that he’d attempted suicide on “multiple occasions” and writing that he hoped telling his side of the story might “help some other chubby, goofy, socially-isolated, sensitive kid getting bullied in America who feels like no one in the world cares about them.” Read more of his note below (the actual tweet is embedded at the bottom):

You move to Los Angeles at 10 & attend JTD, then Harvard Westlake, both environments that are completely new to you. You’re one of just a handful of minorities in elite private schools. You learn to tone down your size & blackness by becoming shy, introverted, friendly, so you won’t scare the little rich white kids or their parents. Neither black nor white people accept you because they don’t understand you. It takes away your self-confidence, your self-worth, your sanity.

You’ve been told you’re not “black enough” your entire life. It nearly destroys you, many times, not fitting in. Your talent & accomplishments on the field never seem to be able to overcome the demons that you carry with you from your middle school and high school experience. You’re always inadequate, always the “pussy,” the “weird kid who acts white.”

You overcompensate, create a persona separate from who you really are, use it as motivation to gain respect from playing a game. Make a fool of yourself at times. Anything in the quest to one day to feel “cool.” You see football as the only thing that you are good at, your only avenue to make the shy, depressed, weird kid from high school “cool.” To the outside world, many assume you to be somewhat egotistical, womanizing, over-the-top; a typical football player.

Years later, your time in the NFL is a wake up call. In all likelihood, anyone else in your shitty locker room situation probably wouldn’t take everything so personally, would’ve been able to brush it off and say “fuck it, you’re making millions. You’re starting as a rookie. You’re living your dream.” But you’re different. Have always been different. Have always been more sensitive.

You thought your same work ethic that had made you a two-time All-American, a 2nd Rd NFL draft pick, would earn you respect. After all, you have achieved what only a select few other first-year players achieved: starting all 16 games, barely missing a snap.

You are very wrong. You realize years later, reflecting on your experiences, that sometimes you need to take what you want, what you earned, from people who refuse to give it to you. You need to demand respect, and be willing to fight for it every day. The whitewashed, hermetically-sealed bubble you grew up in and were educated in did not provide any of those lessons.

You were raised in a good household. You know that you are a flawed person. Have done stupid, regrettable things. But you know right from wrong. And consider integrity to be incredibly important. The worst thing of all, in your mind, is being called a liar.

Your job leads you to attempt to kill yourself on multiple occasions. Your self-perceived social inadequacy dominates your every waking moment & thought. You’re petrified of going to work. You either sleep 12, 14, 16, hours a day when you can, or not at all. You drink too much, smoke weed constantly, have trouble focusing on doing your job, playing the sport that you grew up obsessed with.

But one day, you realize how absurd your current mindset is, that this shit doesn’t matter. People don’t matter. Money doesn’t matter. Fame and notoriety sure as hell don’t matter. Nothing matters besides your family, a few close friends, and your own personal happiness.

You play another year and a half and get badly injured. You want to keep playing, but having broken free of the addiction that football had been, you know inside that risking permanent debilitating injury isn’t worth it. So you retire.

You realize that your experiences have taught you that you need to leave the baggage behind. “Friends” who you played high school football with saying whatever to get their name in an article. Former coaches blowing up your phone trying to be your financial advisor. Your god father suddenly appearing your senior year of college out of thin air bearing gifts, trying to get tickets to your games & slyly asking your parents to manage your money.

You realize who truly has had your back. Who the people are who you need to embrace. And cherish every moment you have had with them. You let your demons go, knowing that, perhaps, sharing your story can help some other chubby, goofy, socially-isolated, sensitive kid getting bullied in America who feels like no one in the world cares about them.

And let them know that they aren’t alone.

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You Need to Read This Former NFL Lineman’s Heartbreaking Message About Race and Bullying

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Heart of Agave

Mother Jones

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The Suburban surged and swerved, rattling across potholes and rocketing over heaves in the sun-scorched asphalt. At the wheel, Adolfo Murillo smiled with pride. “This road we’re on here,” he said, “for years and years and years was never paved.” Going back to the 1940s, local politicians had run on promises of laying down tarmac but never made good. The highway was only leveled and tarred about a decade ago, in part to accommodate the truckloads of agaves traveling the 16 miles from Murillo’s fields near the dusty village of Agua Negra to the tequila distilleries in Arandas, Jalisco, in central Mexico. Murillo steered with one hand and twisted the cork of a bottle of tequila with the other. The rubber stopper squeaked then popped, like a wet kiss, and the cab instantly filled with the smell of baked agave.

In just eight years on the market, Murillo’s brand, Alquimia, has won 35 gold medals in international contests, including best in show for its extra añejo—the classification for tequila aged in an oak barrel for more than three years—at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition in March. The key, Murillo told me, is in the high sugar content of his plants. Many larger distillers have embraced the extra añejo category, because strong oaky flavors can mask poor-quality tequila, but the natural flavor of the plant is overwhelmed. “If you age tequila too aggressively,” Murillo told me, “you lose the agave characteristics.” To demonstrate the contrast, he poured his añejo into plastic tasting cups perched on the armrest between our seats, somehow topping off each shot as he braked and eased around craters in the blacktop.

Watching the red-clay hills slip by, I sipped the shot, relaxing a bit into my seat, the rich vegetal sweetness of agave mixing with the smokiness of toasted oak.

The 58-year-old Murillo was born in Agua Negra, where his grandfather was a small-plot farmer, but in 1961 his parents moved their family to Ojai, California, where his father, who later became a US citizen, oversaw a poultry operation. Adolfo returned to his grandparents’ farm every few summers, until he went to UC-Santa Barbara to get a bachelor’s degree in biological sciences. He got his doctorate in optometry at UC-Berkeley, and on weekends, he and his wife would drive up to the Napa Valley and fantasize about owning a winery. But when his grandmother died, Murillo began to dream of blue agaves instead.

Luis Guzmán, the manager of Rancho Murillo in Agua Negra, Jalisco, in the doorway to a Murillo family garage in Agua Negra, Arandas, Jalisco, Mexico. Photographs by Mary Anne Andrei

Locals thought he was nuts. Agua Negra is within the official zone for tequila production, but no one had ever tried cultivating agave in this high-desert region. Everyone told Murillo it was too cold, there was too little rain, and the soil wasn’t red enough—not enough iron to sustain agave. But Murillo turned to science: He had the soil tested and found that it had a very similar chemical composition to the highly productive fields of Arandas, to the southwest. And because it had been generations since the area around Agua Negra had been used to raise large-scale cash crops, the soil could be quickly restored to its organic state.

“Agriculture in Mexico is very chemical intensive,” Murillo said as we arrived at the gate of his ranch. In the early 1970s, when the United States flooded the world market with cheap corn, many Mexican farmers turned to herbicides, fungicides, and insecticides as a way of improving crop yields and staying competitive. But those industrial methods had largely bypassed the small farms of Agua Negra, and Murillo believed that, with a little help from chicken manure and micronutrients, the local dirt could produce a superior agave. Murillo was right. He boasts that his first harvest, in 2000, produced agave hearts with nearly twice the sugar content of other agaves raised around Arandas. Because alcohol is produced by fermenting raw sugars, Murillo’s sugar-rich agaves were highly sought-after—especially since many other growers had lost crops to disease and bad weather that year. He found ready buyers among large distillers, like Cazadores and Herradura, but the big tequila companies saw the opportunity. They began leasing land around Agua Negra themselves, planting their own agaves and spraying with fertilizers and pesticides, rather than hiring local workers to tend the fields by hand.

Murillo was determined to show that his organic methods yielded a better product. He started Alquimia (a nod to Paulo Coelho’s novel The Alchemist, whose protagonist pursues an impossible dream) while still maintaining his optometry business in Oxnard. Now, he jokes, “I help people see twice as well during the week, and then I help them see double on the weekend.”

Murillo let the Suburban roll to a stop at the crest of the ridge. Row upon row of blue agaves stretched in all directions, each plant’s needle-tipped leaves rising head high. It was the realization of Murillo’s dream—but he had bigger ambitions. “I can only do so much on my grandfather’s rancho,” Murillo said, “but if I can recruit my neighbors and they recruit others, then we will have a movement.”

Agave-derived alcoholic beverages have been a staple in rural Mexico since pre-­Hispanic times, but the plant is notoriously difficult to cultivate at scale. It’s vulnerable to weevils, fungi, bacteria, and cold snaps. And unlike the grains used to produce whiskey and vodka, the blue agave typically takes 6 to 10 years to reach maturity, so a single crop loss can set a grower back a decade. When demand for tequila first began to surge worldwide in the late 1960s, Mexico loosened production standards to allow tequila makers to use nonagave sugars—in the process creating the cheap, hangover-inducing classification known as mixto that gave tequila a bad name. Still—thanks to Jimmy Buffett, the rise of chain Mexican restaurants and the frozen margarita, and generations of wayward frat boys—demand continued to climb, making brands like Jose Cuervo and Sauza into international powerhouses.

But then in 1989, Patrón changed the game, proving that Americans would pay a higher price for prestige bottles of tequila. Since then, imports of pure agave tequila have doubled—with the greatest leap coming in the super-premium division, where sales of high-end tequilas have increased five times over. The billion-dollar market has become so lucrative that George Clooney, Sean Combs, and Justin Timberlake all have their own brands. And now that the Mexican government has negotiated an end to Beijing’s ban on the liquor, it projects 2.6 million gallons—more than $100 million—in sales to China by 2020.

All that growth has pushed growers to plant vast monoculture fields and deploy the products of American agrichemical companies. (It’s not unusual to see fields proudly emblazoned with indicators for Monsanto or Pioneer.) But there are signs of change among the big players as well. In 2012, Sauza announced that they would shift their entire top-shelf line, Tres Generaciones, over to organically certified blue agave. I went to their research lab just outside the town of Tequila to meet the company’s technical director, José Ignacio del Real Laborde.

Del Real was candid. He said that when Fortune Brands, the owner of Jim Beam and Knob Creek, acquired Sauza in 2005, it almost immediately took a close look at the early success of small organic brands like Alquimia. Fortune concluded that such products represented a growth market, especially in China, where—because of mounting fears about environmental contamination—organic products are prized. Del Real confessed he didn’t quite understand why anyone would pay a premium for an organic bottle. Tequila, after all, is a distilled spirit, so all contaminants are pretty well eliminated. And how would something as small as what tequila you drink have much environmental impact? “It’s about paying for your sins,” he told me, cracking a wry grin. “So someone can drive a big car but still make themselves a friend of the environment by buying organic tequila?”

Still, del Real went along with the plan. Together with Lois Christie, an organic certification consultant, they scouted fields in the far southern reaches of tequila’s required denomination of origin. Agaves had never been grown there before, so it was easier to find clean soil. Del Real, who has a Ph.D. in plant science from Utah State University, developed pesticide-free management techniques, such as pheromone-baited traps for the agave weevil and the use of beneficial insects to reduce fungal infections.

Sauza has since been bought by Japanese liquor giant Suntory, but Christie assures me that it remains committed to maintaining Tres Generaciones as an organic line. And she said she was encouraged to see other distillers beginning to adopt aspects of organic production. In fact, on a recent visit to the palatial Patrón facility in Atotonilco El Alto, I toured a massive plant for composting agave fibers and a state-of-the-art reverse osmosis system that repurposes wastewater for irrigation. But I also saw hillsides all over the highlands covered with tightly packed blue-agave plants and, in between, narrow rows of weed-free red soil—a sure sign of the continuing widespread use of potent herbicides.

This February, back in Agua Negra, it was festival time. In a village where families have been divided between Mexico and the United States since the time of the Cristero War in the 1920s, the annual gathering for fireworks and the rodeo has long been a kind of community-wide family reunion. Adolfo Murillo flew down from California, along with his two daughters, to partake in the festivities.

One evening, waiting outside the church for Mass to let out, Murillo stood in the fluorescent glare of a taco stand, talking to his friend Miguel Hurtado Gallegos. Hurtado grew up in Agua Negra but crossed into California in 1985, where he picked cabbage and spinach in the fields near Oxnard, not far from where Murillo’s parents moved after he graduated from high school. Over the years, as Hurtado divided his time between California and Jalisco, he watched the progress of Murillo’s organic project—but he wasn’t certain that the Murillo in Agua Negra had anything to do with the optometrist he knew in Oxnard. Finally, in 2002, when his son had an eye appointment, Hurtado mentioned that he was from Agua Negra. Murillo eagerly offered to share his methods and even volunteered the services of Luis Guzmán, his ranch manager, in helping Hurtado prepare a small plot of organic agave in Agua Negra. “We wanted our ranch to serve as a classroom,” Murillo said.

And not just for agave. Hurtado initially planted five acres of agave but soon turned the improved soil toward raising organic, non-GMO corn and bought cattle to raise on the feed. Murillo has now trained farmers who grow avocados, limes, strawberries, garlic, and chilies. He offered the instruction for free, and it came with only one condition: Farmers had to agree to share the methods they have learned with others. As the organic gospel spread, it had another, unexpected side benefit. Hurtado and fellow landowners soon expanded operations and began hiring more workers. The village, once devastated by NAFTA and cheap American corn, now offers good-paying farm jobs, reversing the generation-long flow of young people to the United States.

In 2003, 78 percent of households in Agua Negra had at least one member living in the United States—many in California. The reason was simple: You could earn nearly four times as much in the fields of the Central Valley as in those around Agua Negra. But just as the Great Recession was taking hold in the United States, the communities between Agua Negra and Arandas were beginning to thrive. Damien Cave, reporting for the New York Times in 2011, explained simply, “A tequila boom that accelerated through the 1990s created new jobs for farmers cutting agave and for engineers at the stills. Other businesses followed.” With increased commerce came electricity and running water in outlying communities, trash collection and poured-concrete roads in Agua Negra, and the blacktop that now connects the town to Arandas. And over that road, a bus, paid for in part by Murillo, now takes teenagers to the high school in the city, which previously had been too far away to attend. The daughter of Murillo’s farm manager was one of the first to make that trip; she now works in Agua Negra as a teacher.

On a cloudy morning during the festival, Silviano Alvizo Murillo, a distant cousin to Adolfo, took me out to his agave fields, now planted with close to 100,000 plants. Murillo provided Alvizo with manure to till into the soil, showed him how to space his rows of starter plants, and had his ranch manager apply the organic liquid mixture. Between the wide rows on the flatter parts of his land, Alvizo plants beans and corn; on the rockier spots on steeper slopes, he lets native plants grow high. With agave stretching away to the hillsides in every direction, I couldn’t help wondering if he had grander plans. Alvizo smiled and led me up to the house, where he brought out a tiny barrel of tequila—a single batch produced at a local distillery, just enough for parties. But it had gotten Alvizo thinking. Maybe some day he would create his own brand too.

Later, I asked Murillo if he ever worried about fostering his own competition. After all, since he launched Alquimia less than a decade ago, nearly a dozen other certified-organic brands have come on the market and now vie for shelf space in high-end liquor stores and grocery chains like Whole Foods. “Actually,” Murillo said, “it would almost be the opposite. Our hope was that this would catch their attention, to maybe do the same thing for their production.” After all, for all its momentum, organic tequila makes up a tiny fraction of overall sales.

As the sun set on the final day of the festival, Murillo sat in the courtyard of a small home he owns across the street from the church. The bells were tolling as evening Mass let out and fireworks snapped and blossomed overhead. “Our traditional products of Mexico speak so much about our country and our people,” he said, “but the biggest tequila producers are no longer Mexican. And I suppose that’s modern economics, but instead of pulling out all your profits and just exploiting people, why not promote education, promote healthier living?”

As I drove out of the village, back toward Arandas, signs of the progress Murillo envisions were all around. Lining either side of the paved road, rows of agave plants, each like a tiny burst of daggers, turned a deeper blue in the gathering dusk. And, now and then, the red-dirt furrows would be replaced by flowering bushes or grass freshly cut by field-workers, the lights of their houses now blinking to life in the darkness.

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Heart of Agave

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There Is Poop in Basically All Hamburger Meat

Mother Jones

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There’s a “simple explanation for why eating a hamburger can now make you seriously ill,” wrote Eric Schlosser in Fast Food Nation: The Dark Side of the All-American Meal. “There is shit in the meat.”

A new Consumer Reports investigation suggests that things haven’t changed much since the publication of Schlosser’s 2001 blockbuster. The team tested 300 packages of ground beef, bought from more than 100 grocery, big-box, and natural food stores in 26 cities nationwide. The result:

All 458 pounds of beef we examined contained bacteria that signified fecal contamination (enterococcus and/or non-toxin-producing E. coli), which can cause blood or urinary tract infections.

But not all burger meat is created equal. The researchers also compared the bacterial load of beef from conventionally raised (181 samples) cows to that of their no-antibiotic, grass fed, and organic peers (116 samples total), grouped under the heading “more sustainably produced.” Here’s what they found:

From “How Safe is Your Beef?,” Consumer Reports

The bacterial implications of beef production practices really emerged when the researchers tested the bacterial strains for resistance to antibiotics. Nearly a fifth of conventional ground beef carried bacteria three or more classes of antibiotics—more than double the number found in the “more sustainably produced” samples, and triple that found in samples from cows raised outdoors on grass.

From “How Safe is Your Beef?,” Consumer Reports

The article offers plenty of information that could explain these differences. As for why essentially all ground beef carries fecal bacteria, the slaughter and processing of huge animals is messy—feces caked on the hide or trapped in intestines can easily move onto the carcass. That’s not such a big deal in steaks and roasts, because the bacteria tend to stay on the surface, so “when you cook them, the outside is likely to get hot enough to kill any bugs.” But with ground beef, “the bacteria get mixed throughout, contaminating all of the meat—including what’s in the middle of your hamburger.”

Then there’s this problem: “The meat and fat trimmings often come from multiple animals, so meat from a single contaminated cow can end up in many packages of ground beef.”

As for why conventional production—source of 97 percent of US burger meat, according to CR—is moderately more likely to contain certain bacteria like E. coli, and much more likely to contain multi-drug-resistant strains, the report delivers a detailed look at the different production systems.

Conventionally raised cows start out on grass but spend the final months of their lives on feedlots, where they fatten on diets of corn and soybeans, even though “cows’ digestive systems aren’t designed to easily process high-starch foods such as corn and soy,” creating an acidic environment in the cows’ digestive tract that can “lead to ulcers and infections” and “shed more E. coli in their manure.

And corn and soy aren’t the only delicacies feedlot cows feast on.

Their feed can also include include candy (such as gummy bears, lemon drops, and chocolate) to boost their sugar intake and plastic pellets to substitute for the fiber they would otherwise get from grass. Cattle feed can also contain parts of slaughtered hogs and chickens that are not used in food production, and dried manure and litter from chicken barns.

In addition, they can also receive regular low doses of antibiotics, both to prevent infections and promote faster growth, although the Food and Drug Administration has launched a voluntary program to limit the latter use. One common feedlot antibiotic, tylosin—used to ward off liver abscesses—is in “a class of antibiotics that the World Health Organization categorizes as ‘critically important’ for human medicine,” CR reports.

The magazine recommends that consumers buy from the alternative supply chains “whenever possible”—”sustainable methods run the gamut from the very basic ‘raised without antibiotics’ to the most sustainable, which is grass-fed organic.” (The article contains ample detail on each.) And when you get it home, handle it carefully and cook it to 160 degrees. After all, there’s shit in pretty much all the ground beef.

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There Is Poop in Basically All Hamburger Meat

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Irradiated Food Sounds Like a Terrible Thing. It’s Actually Really Good.

Mother Jones

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Mattias Mackler

In 2002, the East Coast supermarket chain Wegmans introduced a line of packaged ground beef that had been irradiated with an electron beam to kill bacteria. Company executives expected the product to do well; a series of foodborne illness outbreaks had rendered Americans’ confidence in food safety dismally low. The launch came at the start of grilling season, and executives thought it would be a hit with people who liked their burgers rare but didn’t want to get sick from undercooked meat. The slogan: “Cook it the way you like it!”

But to their surprise, sales were unimpressive—and they remain so today, says Wegmans’ meat merchandising manager, Mark Spagnola. One reason might be the higher price: Irradiated beef can cost as much as 80 cents more per pound. But Wegmans’ customers are willing to pay a premium for other special foods, like organics. So more likely, it’s irradiation itself that put shoppers off. Many consumer surveys have found that people consider irradiation—which the federal government approved for some foods as early as the 1960s—creepy and unsafe. “Some people even think their food is going to be radioactive,” Spagnola says, “which is just totally not how this works.”

Here’s how it does work: At a special irradiation plant—there are just a handful in the United States—workers zap food with a machine similar to the kind that administers radiation to cancer patients. Most facilities use electron beams, but some irradiate with X-rays or gamma rays. While the dose of radiation is high, it doesn’t stay with the food—and workers are protected from it with safety gear and massive concrete walls. The result, says Michael Osterholm, a University of Minnesota foodborne illness expert who has studied irradiation extensively, is that it kills as many bacteria as cooking at high temperatures—but without any loss of taste. “Food irradiation shows absolutely no detrimental impact on the food,” he says.

Hundreds of studies have proved that irradiation neither adds compounds to food nor takes nutrients away—and that it can help prevent the foodborne illnesses that sicken 48 million Americans and kill 3,000 every year. The World Health Organization and the US Department of Agriculture have deemed the technology safe for food, as has the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, which asserts that in addition to eliminating dangerous bacteria in human food, the technique could also be used to prevent the spread of disease in livestock through its feed.

Yet some food advocacy groups have campaigned vociferously against the technique. Food and Water Watch, for example, argues that it might induce manufacturers to zap food instead of maintaining a clean plant. “This could be a gateway to faster line speeds at meat facilities and sloppier handling practices,” says Patty Lovera, the organization’s assistant director. But Rick Holley, a food microbiologist and irradiation expert at the University of Manitoba, sees the technique as an extra tool, rather than a crutch; irradiation, he points out, doesn’t get rid of all bacteria, just most. “You can’t make bad food good using irradiation,” he says. “If your plant is dirty and not inspected and overtaxed, the food is going to be bad in a way that irradiation can’t fix.”

In fact, you’re probably already eating irradiated products. About a third of dried herbs and spices are irradiated to prevent salmonella, and imported fruits like mangoes and papayas are sometimes zapped to kill invasive insects. The technique is also used to sterilize medical equipment like gloves, bandages, and syringes, as well as personal-care products like contact lens solution and baby bottle nipples. Several European countries regularly irradiate all kinds of food; the French even do it to Camembert cheese so as to cut down on pathogens from raw milk. In South Africa, safari operators eat irradiated meat because it has a long shelf life, even in hot climates.

To be sure, the technology isn’t cheap—but that, says Harlan Clemmons, who runs an irradiation facility in Sioux City, Iowa, is mostly because it costs a lot of money to ship all that meat to the special plants. Although the equipment is expensive (about $18 million up front), Clemmons calculates that if meat processors did irradiation in-house, over time they could bring the cost down “to next to nothing.”

But that’s unlikely to happen anytime soon unless consumers start embracing the technique—which might require more public attention. In a 2005 study, 484 shoppers at grocery stores in four Texas towns were asked about their opinion of irradiated foods. Then they read material about how an electron beam works and watched a short video on the topic. Initially, about 18 percent of the shoppers described themselves as “doubters” or “rejecters” of irradiation. But after the statements and video, that number dwindled to just 3.8 percent. Osterholm likens the public mistrust of irradiation to the anti-vaccine movement. “We know that we could eliminate many food safety problems with this technique,” he says. “And yet people are still fighting it.”

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Irradiated Food Sounds Like a Terrible Thing. It’s Actually Really Good.

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